Peptides in skin care, including the polypeptides on many labels, are one of the most approachable ingredient families: widely used, generally gentle, and easy to add to almost any routine. Here is what they are and how to read them on a label.
What are peptides (and polypeptides)?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the same building blocks that make up proteins like collagen and elastin. In skincare, specific peptides are added to formulas focused on the look of firmer, smoother and more even skin.
The main types of peptides on your labels
| Label name | Also known as | Group | Often used for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Copper Tripeptide-1 | GHK-Cu | Carrier peptide | Firmer, smoother-looking skin |
| Acetyl Octapeptide-3 | SNAP-8 | Neurotransmitter-affecting | The look of expression lines |
| Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 | Argireline | Neurotransmitter-affecting | The look of expression lines |
| Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 | Matrixyl | Signal peptide | The look of firmness |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Tetrapeptide-7 | Matrixyl 3000 | Signal peptides | Smoother-looking skin |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 | — | Signal peptide | The look of firmness and smoothness |
SNAP-8 is a longer relative of Argireline, and the two are often used together. GHK-Cu gets its own guide: What is GHK-Cu?
Are peptides good for your skin and for anti-aging?
For most people, peptides are a low-fuss addition. They are generally well tolerated, which makes them popular with people who are new to active ingredients or who find retinoids too drying. They also combine easily with hydrators like hyaluronic acid and with niacinamide.
Keep expectations realistic: peptides are a consistency ingredient. Give a peptide serum 8 to 12 weeks of daily use before judging it, and remember that sunscreen does more for the look of aging skin than any single serum.
How to choose a peptide serum
- Look for more than one peptide. Multi-peptide serums combine groups that are used for different things.
- Check where they sit on the list. Ingredients are listed roughly by amount, though peptides are effective at low levels, so they rarely appear first.
- Pick a texture you will use. The best serum is the one you apply every day. Lightweight formulas are easiest to layer.
- Mind the rest of your routine. If you use vitamin C or strong acids, plan to use them at a different time of day from a copper peptide serum.
How to use a peptide serum
After cleansing, apply a few drops to the face and neck, let it absorb, then moisturize. Most peptide serums are made for morning and evening use; in the morning, finish with sunscreen. See skincare routine order for where everything else goes.
Quick answers
What do peptides do for your skin?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids used in formulas focused on the look of firmer, smoother, more even skin.
Are peptides good for sensitive skin?
Peptides are generally well tolerated, which makes them popular for sensitive skin. Patch test any new product first.
Which peptides are best for skin?
There is no single best peptide. GHK-Cu, SNAP-8, Argireline and Matrixyl are among the most widely used, and many serums combine several.
Can I use peptides every day?
Yes. Most peptide serums are designed for daily use, morning and evening.
Do peptides replace retinol?
Not exactly. They work differently, and many people use both. Peptides vs. retinol